Sushiteru

Slide open the door of this unpretentious sushi restaurant and a counter comes into view, where the chef deftly shapes each piece to order. A fine place to start at Sushiteru is the special nigiri set, which brings together a generous selection of toppings: medium-fatty tuna, sea urchin, salmon roe, Japanese tiger prawn and ark shell, as well as anago, praised for its soft, delicate texture and gentle sweetness. The rice is seasoned to complement the flavour of each topping, and tekka maki and cucumber rolls make easy additions.

You can also order individual pieces, rather than choosing a set. Pick from silver-skinned fish such as kohada, mackerel and horse mackerel, meaty scallop or tuna with its rich, clean flavour. A refreshing green-tea shochu highball, sake or beer makes a fitting accompaniment.

Open from 17:00 in the evening until 2:00 the following morning, Monday through Saturday, the restaurant suits both an after-work drink and a later meal. Its welcoming atmosphere makes it comfortable to dine alone, too, and it is a dependable option for a satisfying sushi meal in Ikebukuro.